This page is currently and continually being developed. Please contact us if answers to your questions are not found in the FAQs page or under the links for specific models.

How can I get some help with problems I am having with an Overbeck Machine product?

Please visit this page in the future, read through the FAQs , and/or contact us

What is the difference between a 2 bolt headstock and a 4 bolt headstock?

The early Twisters thru serial number 676 used (2) 3/8 bolts to mount the headstock to the base plate, All later machines use (4) 1/4" bolts. You can tell what you have by turning the machine over and looking under the spindle (headstock) mounting area. There will be 2 hex head bolts (early style) or 4 flathead allen bolts (latest style) The 4 bolt headstock uses thicker handle mounting brackets and is more rigid than the earlier model. For early machines we offer a modified 4 bolt style headstock that mounts with 2 bolts. The part number is 510

Why do you need the serial number of my machine when I order parts?

As you can see in the article above without a serial number we may send you the wrong part. Since Late 2003 we have been shipping "R" model machines. These machines have a "R" in the serial number. The electrical system and motor are completely different, a special regenerative speed control has replaced the old speed control as well as the braking resistor, relay, mounting chassis, and several front panel controls. We will do our best without your serial number but you may end up with incorrect parts.

What kind of preventive maintenance does my Twister need?

As far as lubrication or adjustments nothing is required. The most likely area to require service is the threaded end of the drawtube. Service consists of removing the collet and cleaning the drawtube threads by wiping them with a paper towel after spraying them with some kind of lubricant. Perform this several times to ensure the threads are as clean as possible. While your there make sure the collet body and spindle bore is clean also. Keeping the threads clean will reduce wear and makes changing collets and adjusting collet tension easier.

I have a LT-1B and find that the collet doesn't open fully unless I knock the handle quite hard... is this just wear and tear and if so what can I do about it?

Normally a slight handle movement to the right is all that is needed to release a collet. On even new machines sometimes one must move the handle slightly faster to knock loose the collet. I am talking about a quick wrist movement not a hard slam.

Has this always been a problem or did it just start? Are you doing anything different or using different collets?>/p>

Possible causes of what you are describing include:

  • Accumulation of grit between the drawtube and the spindle, If the drawtube is difficult to turn with no collet in the spindle the cause may be dirt in that area. email me for specific instructions.
  • Dirt or grit between the collet and spindle, Make sure this area is clean.
  • Collet is more that .01" larger than the part gripping surface, if so replace the collet.
  • Internal closer parts are dirty or dry, remove the closer, then remove the closer body and balls clean in solvent, grease all surfaces and reassemble.
  • Internal closer parts are worn, return the unit for service or order a replacement collet closer. We will gladly sell parts but disassembly and reassembly is very difficult without a press and special rings and sleeves.

I have a LT-1B and the motor won't run when I flip the Run / Brake switch to run, or when I step on the foot switch, how do I troubleshoot it?

First of all you should be trained and have experience working around high voltages. You must be able to operate a voltmeter and practice extreme caution while performing tests on a Twister Speed Lathe that has the housing removed as deadly voltages are present even when the machine is not running.

Make sure the speed control on the front panel is set to maximum. Also verify that the power switch is on and that the forward / reverse switch is NOT in the center position.

Step on the foot switch or flip the run / brake switch to run. The motor should run. If it does not, note if the relay pulls in. If the relay does not pull in the problem is possibly the power cord, power switch, forward / reverse switch, relay, or relay socket. If the relay pulls in, place a AC voltmeter (minimum 250 volt range) across L1 and L2 on the circuit Board. You should see 110 to 220 volts AC depending on what voltage your lathe is plugged in to. If you see less than line voltage the problem is possibly the relay, relay socket, or wiring. If you see line voltage remove the test leads and switch to a 250 volt DC range. Measure the voltage between A1 and A2 on the circuit board, it should be between 80 and 100 volts. if voltage is present, the problem is most likely the motor or the wiring going to the motor. If no voltage is present the problem is most likely the circuit board.

I see the parts diagram shows 4 different drive belts which one do I need?

If your lathe's serial number includes no letters other than a "R" or a "TF" or a "VF" it most likely uses our part number 2010 (Gates 5M580), 99% of all Twister Speed Lathes use this belt. If your lathe has a "H" and has no "R" your belt is most likely our part number 1990 (Gates 5M615). If your lathe has a "UL" it uses a toothed belt our part number 2020 (Gates 230XL037). If your lathe has a "L" it uses our part number 2000 (Gates 5M530). Click here for a PDF:

WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals which are known to the State of California to cause cancer and birth defects or other reproductive harm. For more information go to